Business World

Raw fish and cough medicine may not seem like they should occupy the same store, but a select few Walgreens now carry both.

In 2009 Walgreen Co., based in a Chicago suburb, announced it would elevate food offerings at some of its most prominent stores, in downtown Chicago, on Wall Street and elsewhere. Those stores – designed to trumpet that the century-plus-old pharmacy chain was entering new, more rarified terrain – now have sushi bars, $400 bottles of wine, cigar humidors and made-to-order smoothies.

But the company also promised it would fill more shelf space, including here in St. Louis, with cheaper, less esoteric offerings, especially in areas where low-income residents have little access to nutritious or fresh food. Walgreens plans to turn at least 500 of its 7,800 U.S. stores, most in low-income neighborhoods, into what the company is calling “food oases.”

“We found that in lower-income areas, in food deserts, that grocery stores have moved out,” said Bryan Pugh, the company’s vice president of merchandising. “It’s a very strategic initiative. Food brings the shopper in more often.”

So far the company has expanded offerings, including fresh produce, at a modest 35 stores in Chicago, Detroit, San Francisco, Oakland and Indianapolis. But it plans to expand to other cities over the next five years. The company aims to boost food offerings in some of its 110 St. Louis-area stores by 2013, Pugh said, noting that it has already rolled out new in-house food brands that are on store shelves already.

“We’re overhauling all our brands,” Pugh said.

Walgreens is not the only retailer who says it will bring fresh produce to under-served areas in St. Louis and beyond.  Save-A-Lot stores have said they will open 500 stores in these neighborhoods in the five years, and Wal-Mart has made a similar commitment, saying it will open as many as 300 by 2016.  But Walgreens already has a major presence in low-income urban areas, with stores already in place, making its efforts easier to execute, analysts note.

Walgreens’ move, analysts say, could help the company keep customers Walgreens is losing after the company’s split from pharmacy benefits manager Express Scripts. Walgreens stands to lose billions in sales as customers fill their prescriptions elsewhere.

“It’s really interesting timing, because Walgreens can re-establish themselves with people who can no longer fill their prescription there,” said supermarket analyst, Phil Lempert. “It’s: What can we sell them to keep them coming to our store, until they make the transition to Medicare?”

While Walgreens acknowledges that the move is strategic, it also says it has good intentions of providing fresh produce to nutrition-poor areas where fast food is usually the only source of calories. Nutritionists and critics, however, question how successful that effort could be.

“A lot of this is overblown,” said David Livingston, an analyst and supermarket industry researcher. “They already had some food items. They’re adding a few more. They’re adding a few more perishables. Are they really making a difference? I don’t think so.”

Walgreens says it will expand the space it devotes to food by 35 to 40 percent in some of its stores. But, Livingston notes, that translates to roughly 400 square feet. “That’s 20 by 20,” Livingston said. “That’s the size of my bathroom.”

Livingston and other analysts point out that grocery stores pulled out of these neighborhoods for a reason. “If there’s money to be made selling fresh produce, grocery stores would have figured it out,” he said. “I wonder what they’re thinking.”

Marjorie Sawicki, and assistant professor of nutrition and dietetics at Saint Louis University, said she believes Walgreens produce may make a small dent in nutrition-poor diets.

“Where we have food deserts, if there are fruits and vegetables, it might help, because there’s a Walgreens on every block,” Sawicki said. “If they displace items that are filled with sodium and fat, then it could have a benefit. It depends on how they emphasize the food.”

Bringing healthy food to under-served neighborhoods will require a more holistic approach, Sawicki says. “I think it’s a Band-Aid,” she said. “What we need to be looking at is creating community investment so people can access healthy food at a fair price and support the person who grew it. But that’s going to take time.”

Sawicki pointed to other efforts to bring produce to under-served areas, such as The North City Food Co-Op, as better models.  Other new additions to the market landscape in St. Louis food deserts include YOURS Market, which opened in the Baden neighborhood in late 2010.

Still, Walgreens sees an opportunity.

The company did extensive research to determine which stores should sell more food. “Different stores have different trends,” Pugh said. “If I’m on a corner, near a Dominick’s, a Target and a Walmart , I’ll probably do better with beauty (products) there. I’ll look at my data by category and see if I’ve got traffic and I’m selling food. You can’t put fresh food in a store that’s not busy.”

The company’s plan, Pugh said, is not to expand the stores, but to devote more existing space to food. “We’re already in those areas,” he said. “We are the health care oasis there.”

Lempert says he believes that’s a smart strategy.

 “I think it’s fascinating that for years drug chains had the lowest price for milk, that was their loss leader – what they did to get people in,” Lempert said. “Now they’ve leap-frogged milk, and said we can do this bigger and better.”

“We buy food 2.2 times a week, so if they can get more traffic in these stores, they sell more product,” Lempert added. “Supermarket sales are either flat or declining, and if you look at drug-store food sales, they’re through the roof.”

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